By Progga Das:
Today, the name Panta-Ilish has become inseparably tied with Pahela Baishakh, the Bengali New Year. As the festival approaches, this pair of words dominates city billboards, television screens, restaurant menus, and even official celebration programs. It seems to have become a national dish, an essential element of New Year festivities. Regardless of its soaring price or the artificial scarcity in the market, no one wants to back down from the competition to uphold this so-called “tradition.” But is Panta-Ilish really an eternal cultural emblem of Bengali New Year, or is it just a media-driven, capitalist creation? While Pahela Baishakh is meant to be a moment of reconnecting with our roots, the misrepresentation of history and culture during such a celebration can only distance us from our true identity. The celebration of Pahela Baishakh traces back to the Mughal era, centered around tax collection. The Bengali calendar was introduced during Emperor Akbar’s reign to facilitate agricultural revenue collection.
On this day, landlords would organize a festival called Punyah, where tenants would pay taxes and be treated with sweets. Nowhere in documented history do we find any mention of Panta-Ilish. Instead, it was a day of economic relief and joy for farmers, marked by new clothes, sweet treats, music, and theatrical performances. However, the connection of Panta bhat (fermented rice) with rural Bengali life is not new. In agrarian societies, it was a daily meal for common people. Leftover rice soaked overnight in water turned slightly sour and cooling, especially suitable for hot summer days. It was eaten with onions, green chilies, salt, and mashed vegetables. Cheap, nutritious, and energy-giving, Panta bhat was never a festive food but rather a necessity for impoverished farmers and laborers who couldn’t afford freshly cooked meals daily.
On the other hand, Ilish (Hilsa) fish is not naturally abundant during early Baishakh. It is the breeding season when fishing is discouraged. Hence, there was no historical practice of consuming Ilish on the first day of the Bengali year. The notion that Panta-Ilish represents Pahela Baishakh is neither supported by history nor folklore. It is primarily a creation of media, marketing, and the corporate restaurant culture. The pairing of Panta-Ilish with New Year celebrations gained popularity post-2000, as television channels began broadcasting special Baishakhi programs. This was followed by corporate sponsorships, restaurant promotions, boutique discounts, and social media trends.
Very soon, Panta-Ilish became one of the most fashionable elements of the festival. Thus, we are branding stale rice as “heritage” and transforming it into a “smart” delicacy with expensive fish. Instead of preserving genuine tradition, we are endorsing a distorted narrative and pseudo-heritage. Moreover, this false tradition is also driving us towards a food crisis. Since Ilish lay eggs during this time, fishing should ideally be avoided. But commercial pressure forces fishermen to catch them, endangering future generations of the fish. The Panta-Ilish frenzy is therefore not only anti-traditional but also environmentally irresponsible. The true Baishakhi heritage of Bengalis includes Hal Khata (opening of new account books), village fairs, Bengali folk music, Baul songs, traditional performances, and sharing sweets.
Today, however, these celebrations have been reduced to superficial ceremonies and photo sessions. Authentic culture was never confined to outward rituals; it was deeply embedded in emotions, folk beliefs, and social unity. Now that heartfelt connection is disappearing, replaced by a selfie-culture centered around plates of Panta-Ilish. We must discard these artificial cultural practices and reclaim the essence of our Bengali identity. We must teach our children that Pahela Baishakh is not just about feasting but an opportunity to learn history, rediscover our roots, and embrace true heritage. It is not an emotional matter but a rational one eating Ilish at this time harms nature and deprives the poor. These are practical and humanitarian truths we must share. Panta-Ilish is a form of “food branding” exploiting consumers’ emotions. It wouldn’t be an issue if it were based on authentic history or culture. But in reality, it is a misleading representation and a lamentable expression of excessive consumerism.
Pahela Baishakh should instead be a time to rediscover our past in a new light, to celebrate genuine traditions, and to reflect on our identity. Every conscious citizen has a responsibility to preserve and promote the true heritage of the New Year. Let Pahela Baishakh not be about Panta-Ilish, but a celebration of the true Bengali spirit. Only then can our culture earn global admiration.
Progga Das is a Student, Department of Economics, Eden Mohila College, Dhaka.